Fuselage, FWD/MID Bulkheads (Part 2)

*****Work during this session was completed on Friday, March 22, 2019*****

Today’s session was spent working on the F-01404 Aft Center Section Bulkhead.  To start, the #30 and #40 holes in the bottom flange had to be machined countersunk to fit a dimpled .032 Skin.  I used my .032 thick template with a dimpled #40 hole as a guide for the correct countersink depth. To hold the Bulkhead in place while I countersunk the holes, I clamped the Upper Flange to my workbench as shown below.  This allowed a somewhat steady base to complete the countersinking.

Here are examples of the #30 and #40 holes after being countersunk.  I put the orange tape on the Bulkhead to prevent pieces of aluminum shavings from getting in the seam.  I learned this lesson earlier when working on the Wing Spar.  Some of the little shavings are very difficult to remove once they are in the seam.  The tape keeps this from happening.

The next step was to countersink the #40 holes in the Upper Flange of the Bulkhead to fit the head of an AN426AD3 rivet.  These rivets will be attaching nutplates to the flange.  Here are three of the nutplates locations with the countersunk #40 holes.

The last step for today’s session, was to countersink the two #40 holes in the F-01404D-L & -R Side Angles.  Here are both of the Angles (-L on top and -R on the bottom).....

.....and a close up of the two countersunk holes on the -R Side Angle.

Wings, Wing Tip (Part 1)

As with all the other fiberglass pieces, I plan on completing them all at once near the end of the build.  More to follow.....

Wings, Aileron Actuation (Part 1)

During today’s session, I started work on Section 23, Aileron Actuation.  To start, the two CS-00012 Torque Tube to Bellcrank Pushrods had to be fabricated from AT6-035 x 1 1/8 to a length of 64 1/4”.  Each Pushrod had to have a little cut off the end as shown below.  I was able to use my bandsaw the make these cuts.

Each end of the Pushrods will get Threaded Rod Ends installed, so each end had to have rivet holes drilled in them.  The template supplied by Van’s is shown below.....in several pieces.  I found that the template didn’t fit completely right.  Maybe it was something I did, but I couldn’t get the alignment holes on the template to....well, align with each other.  

So, I decided to try something different.  I got a paper tape measure and wrapped it around the Pushrod.  I found the length to be 90mm.  According to the template, six rivets will be used on each end to attach the Threaded Rod Ends.  So, I divided 90mm by 6 and got each rivet location of 15mm.  I then measured the distance of 6mm from the rivet locations to the end of the Pushrods.  

Here is my template measred at 6mm from the end of the Pushrod.....


.....and here are three of the rivet locations marked at the 15mm spacing.

Next, all six of the marked rivet locations had #40 pilot holes drilled.  Here are a couple of the holes after being drilled.

These are the four Threaded Rod Ends that will go in each end of the Pushrods.

Next, the Threaded Rod End was then inserted into the Pushrod.  “Proper alignment of the Threaded Rod End in the Torque Tube to Bellcrank Pushrod is when the end of the Tube coincides with the edge of the taper in the Threaded Rod End”.  (If you look at the picture above, you can almost see a “line” where the taper starts).  Once the proper alignment was achieved, the Threaded Rod Ends were match-drilled #30 using the #40 pilot holes and a cleco was installed in each hole as it was match-drilled.  In the picture below, all six holes are show match-drilled with clecos installed.

Here is another angle.  You can kinda see the tapered portion of the Threaded Rod End from this angle.

This process was completed for all four ends of the Pushrods.  Prior to disassembly, each end of the Pushrods and the corresponding Threaded Rod Ends were numbers and one hole was marked on each to assure the same parts went back together in the same orientation.

Fuselage, FWD/MID Bulkheads (Part 1)

*****Work during this session was completed on Thursday, March 21, 2019*****

I still have some work to complete on the Left and Right Ailerons, but decided to make a change of pace and start on Section 25-FWD MID FUSE Bulkheads.  I’ll go back to the Ailerons after this section, but needed a break from them!  Anyone who has ever built an RV, will know what I’m talking about.

Anyway, this section starts with separating the F-01405B Bulkhead Bars.   Here is what they plans excerpt look like.....

.....and there is what the final product looks like.  I used my Milwaukee Rotary Tool to separate the four Bulkhead Bars.  Next, I used the 6” Scotchbrite Wheel to remove the excess material and make the edges as smooth as possible.  Lastly, I used 220 grit sand paper to complete edge work.

Moving on.....the next step was to dimple the #30 and #40 holes in the F-01405D-L & -R Bulkhead Side Channel flanges (with a few exceptions).  Pictured below are the two pieces with the appropriate holes dimpled.  Kind of hard to see the dimples in this picture, but they are there.  I also completed the edge work after all the holes were dimpled.

Lastly, for today’s session, the #40 holes were dimpled in the bottom flange of the F-01405A Bulkhead Bottom Channel.  Here is the Bottom Channel after all the holes were dimpled.  I also completed all the edge work after the holes were dimpled.

That’s it for the first session on the 3rd Kit (Fuselage).   I’ll pick it up from here tomorrow.

Kit Inventory (Fuselage)

*****I usually update my blog with my iPad using BlogTouch Pro.  After a recent app update, I have been unable to login to the***** app.  So, in order to keep from getting any further behind with new posts, I'm going to update the blog via the website unit it's fixed.

Saturday, March 16, 2019

Today, I started/completed the inventory on the fuselage kit.  Here is what it looks like with the top of the crate removed......tightly packed with all the parts and pieces.  The kit was only missing one Frame Side, a couple of bolts (one was actually bent), and a few nutplates.  There was, however, six parts that were on backorder.  

About halfway through the inventory.....

....and inventory complete (at least they stuff in the shipping crate).

Now on to the hardware.....this damn bag of hardware had to of weighed 15 pounds!

All of the parts are now put away and waiting.....

Kit Delivery (Fuselage)

*****I usually update the my blog with my iPad using BlogTouch Pro.  After a recent app update, I have been unable to login to the***** app.  So, in order to keep from getting any further behind with new posts, I’m going to update the blog via the website until it’s fixed.

Friday, March 15, 2019

Today, my fuselage kit was delivered by Saia LTL Freight.  This was my first experience with this freight company and I was very happy with their service.

There was no visible damage to the shipping crate itself; however, some of the staples were pulled away from the top of the crate as shown below.  The banding straps held the top on with no problem.  

Wings, Ailerons (Part 19)

Yesterday, I treated the Nose Skin, Spar, and Outboard/Inboard Hinge Brackets with Alumiprep and Alodine.  Today, I primed them with Akzo.  The Nose Skin and Spar are shown below after being primed.  The Inboard and Outboard Hinge Brackets will be discussed along with the second picture below.

In Part 16, I discussed how I messed up the Inboard/Outboard Hinge Brackets by countersinking them on the wrong side.  As I mentioned, I ordered the new Brackets from Van’s and completed the prep work on them by priming them today.  In the picture below, I have identified the newly completed Inboard and Outboard Hinge Brackets after being riveted to the their respective Main Ribs.  Additionally, you can see the Doubler that was riveted to the Spar.

Wings, Ailerons (Part 18)

Today’s session was spent preparing the Spar, Nose Skin, and Inboard/Outboard Brackets (the one’s I re-ordered from Van’s last week) for the Right Aileron.  I decided to start on the Spar by deburring all the #30 holes (webs) and #40 holes (flanges) and then dimpling the #40 holes in the flanges with my pneumatic squeezer.

The next order of business was to cleaned the Spar edges.  My buddy got a new tool from Aircraft Tool Supply Company (ATS), so I decided to try it out.  The tool is a Detail Sander/Polisher and uses these 1-1/4” Sanding Disc (220 grit) and 1-1/4 Sanding Disc (180 grit) to sand your material.  I was very impressed with the results.....this little dude saved a lot of time.  I wasn’t able to use the tool with the lightening holes, so those had to be handsanded like I always do.

Once the Spar was completed, I moved on to the Nose Skin.  I deburred all the holes (all were #40) and dimpled them with my pneumatic squeezers.  I did not used the tool I mentioned above on the Nose Skin edges because it was so thin and I didn’t want to slip and mess it up.  So, I just hand sanded the edges.

Wings, Ailerons (Part 17)

In Part 9, I identified a mistake I made while installing the Counterbalance for the Right Aileron.  As a result, and to easy my mind, I ordered and received the replacement parts from Van’s.  The three picures below show the “new” completed install of the Counterbalance on the Right Aileron.

The picture shows the Nose Skin with all the clecoes in place after preparation....including the 10 #30 clecos in the leading edge.

The two pictures below show a couple angles of the counterbalance install.  The second time around, it came out perfect and just like the Left Aileron.  Very happy with this work.....

Wings, Ailerons (Part 16)

I started today’s session by prepping the Nose Skin for the Left Aileron.  I cleaned the edges, deburred the holes, and dimpled the holes with my pneumatic squeezer.  Once the Nose Skin was completed, the entire Left Aileron was clecoed together for.....

“Step 1:  Lay the assembly flat on the table top hanging the clecoes which are holding the A-1001A-1L Nose Skin to the A-1002-1 Bottom Skin and A-1003-1L Spar over the edge.  Use a straight board to distribute weight over the main ribs to keep the skin firmly against the table with no twist.”

“Step 2:  Check the A-1001A-1 Nose Skin for bowing with a straight edge held spanwise midway between the leading edge and spar.  About 1/16 [1.6 mm] of rise is acceptable.  If necessary, squeeze the skin down by hand to minimize the bow.”

In the picture below, I have complied with the instructions of Step #1.  The Aileron is hanging off the edge of table as described above with my 6’ backriveting plates laying across the Main Ribs.

I complied with Step #2 as shown in the picture below.  I used a three foot steel ruler as described above to check for bowing.  The ruler was almost completed flush across the whole span of the Aileron.  So, I’m going to call this step complete.

Previously, I discovered that I countersunk the Inboard and Outboard Hinge Brackets for the Right Aileron on the wrong side.  Because of this mistake, the Inboard and Outboard Hinge Brackets for the Left and Right Ailerons were dimpled on the same side....and should have been mirrors of each other.  As a result, I had to place a parts order with Van’s.  The parts arrived today, so I verified SEVERAL times I had the correct side (this time) and countersunk the Brackets as directed in the plans.  Here are the “new” Brackets.