The Left and Right Outboard Aileron Hinge Brackets are now complete. The Right Outboard is on the right (manufactured heads shown) and the Left Outboard is on the left (shop heads shown). I used my pneumatic squeezer to set all 30 rivets.....very consistent results. These Brackets will now be known as W-1014-L & -R and are set aside and to be installed after the Top Inboard and Outboard Wing Skins are riveted in place.
Moving on to the W-1007C Rear Spar Doubler Plates. The single hole on the left of each Plate needs to be final-drilled to 11/32. I used a unibit with a 11/32 step to make the hole on the bottom Plate. The same will be done for the top Plate.
I’ve already prepared the three Rear Spar Doubler Plates for the Left Wing (Part 4), so now I will complete the three Plates for the Right Wing. To start, the W-1007E Plate is aligned under the flange of the Right Rear Spar and the outer most edge of the Spar.....then clamped into place. All the holes on the web will now be match-drilled #30 using the Rear Spar pre-punched holes as a guide. All the common attach holes in the upper flange will be match-drilled #40 in the same manner.
This shows all the match-drilled #30 holes (copper clecos) and #40 holes (silver clecos) completed. I also deburred all the holes and completed the edge work.
The next Plate will ultimately get attached where the Right Aileron Pushrod will pass through the Rear Spar. Here the Plate is clamped (on the opposite side) to the Rear Spar. The instruction say to put the line, previously drawn in earlier steps, centered with the outboard most row of rivets. In the picture, outboard is to the left and you can see the vertical blue line centered on the outboard most row of rivets. I have also traced the Pushrod hole from the Rear Spar onto the Plate The material within the blue will be removed.....just like on the Left Wing. Now, all the holes in the web will be match-drilled to #30 and the holes on the upper flange will be match-drilled to #40.
This shows all the match-drilled #30 holes (copper clecos) and #40 holes (silver clecos) completed. I also deburred the holes and cleaned the edges. Now I have to remove the material within the blue line.
I started by using a #30 drill bit to make a pilot hole in the center of the blue area. Then, I used a unibit to make a 3/4 hole (largest on the unibit). Finally, I used by buddy’s angle grinder with a grinding bit to expand the hole very close to the edge of the blue line. I will use 220 grit sand paper and small fine hand file to match the pre-punched hole in the Rear Spar.
Here’s the finished Doubler after having the material removed.....
.....and here it is on the Rear Spar.
Here is the third and final Doubler for the Right Rear Spar. This Doubler is aligned the same as before.....the vertical blue line centered on the outer most row of holes. Now, the #30 web holes and the #40 flange holes will be match-drilled.
This shows all the match-drilled #30 holes (copper clecos) and #40 holes (silver clecos) completed. Again, I also deburred the holes and completed the edge work.
Due to the manufacturing process, the W-00007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Forks are slightly bent. To remove this bend, I took a 1”x6” block of wood and held the forks down on the table. Then, I slowly bent the opposite end of the Fork to remove the bend. This took a little massaging to get the Forks straight, but it work out pretty well.
The plans now direct you to cleco the W-0007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork, W-1007C Rear Spar Doubler.....
.....W-1007D-L Rear Spar Doubler Plate (Inboard).....
W-1007D-L Rear Spar Doubler Plate (Outboard), W-1013-L Aileron Hinge Bracket Assembly to the Main Spar and Rib Assembly to the Rear Spar.
The plans didn’t call for the Outboard Aileron Hinge Bracket and Spar Doubler to be clecoed to the Rear Spar, but I wanted to check the fit and see how the pieces went together.
More tomorrow.....